Italy leads the world in wine production and is known as the "land of a thousand vines." Its native grapes are abundant and a treat to explore.
What about mainstream grapes, such as cabernet, chardonnay and merlot? These are grown in Italy, and winemakers today often make them in the international style typical of wines from Australia, California, South Africa and other places. Italian winemakers do a respectable job with these, and some are definitely worth trying. However, international wines tend to taste more similar than unique. Why not experiment with Italy's more flavorful indigenous grapes? They offer truly tasty treats at excellent prices, saving you money while delighting your palate. Let's review some worth buying.
Piedmont, located in the north of Italy is well known among wine aficionados for expensive Barolos and Barbarescos, as well as inexpensive and easy-drinking Barberas and Dolcettos. A pleasant surprise awaits those who sip Arneis. From an aromatic white grape, it's delicious and a superb complement to food, as are most Italian wines. Try Giudobono Arneis ($17), a light, dry wine with a delightful mineral quality.
Another outstanding white from the northern region of Vallee d'Aoste is Freres Grosjean Petite Arvine ($26). Rich and complex, it blends citrus notes with a subtle, yet steely, minerality. It's exceptional and promises a marvelous and truly unique experience.
What Baby Boomer doesn't remember Soave? Italy's producers flooded the U.S. with cheap Soave in the '70s, diminishing the reputation of a wine with excellent potential in the hands of conscientious winemakers, such as Pieropan. Pieropan Soave Classico ($17), made from the garganega grape primarily, is a luscious wine, featuring clean intense tropical fruit in a crisp, vibrant style.
How could I write an article on Italian wines without mentioning pinot grigio, the best-selling, imported wine in America? That would be easy, frankly, since most pinot grigios are thin, watery and offer little of interest to discriminating wine drinkers. There are always exceptions, of course, and the pinot grigio ($30) from Bressan Estates is one of the most wonderful whites ever to delight a wine lover's tastebuds.
When friends come over for a chicken and shrimp risotto dinner, Bressan Pinot Grigio pairs perfectly. Full-bodied with rich, robust flavors, it's the antithesis to the typical grigio. Winemaker Fulvio Bressan, one of the most interesting and entertaining characters I've met, is a true genius at his art. Try this wine and you'll understand why I recommend it. Better yet, try all his wines and you'll think whoever coined the term "wine of the gods" had just left Bressan Estates.
On to Chianti, another area that flooded the U.S. in the '70s with cheap wines of dubious quality, packaged in straw-wrapped bottles called fiascos. Times have changed dramatically, however, and today Tuscan winemakers regularly craft fabulous wines. Paolo de Marchi is widely recognized as a wine god, producing exceptional wines of class and elegance. His winery, Isole e Olena, is one of the best and produces another of my favorites, its 2005 Chianti Classico ($24). I love its silky texture and rich cherry flavor, offered up in a perfectly balanced red wine you can't help but enjoy.
From Emilia Romana, I recommend Umberto Cesari's MOMA ($15), a red wine that is inexpensive, delicious and a superb value for the quality it delivers. MOMA smoothly combines sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
Further south, the Abruzzo region is starting to live up to its promising potential with enticing wines from the Montepulciano grape. One of the consistent values from this region is Masciarelli's Marina Cvetic ($25). The late winemaker idolized Burgundy and focused on creating elegance and finesse rather than power in his wines; this red wine exemplifies that philosophy superbly.
The wonder of Italian wines is that the more you experiment, the more you'll discover and appreciate about them. There's a whole world of wonderful native Italian wines just waiting for the adventurous wine drinker to try. You'll never regret it, so explore away. Enjoy.
Mark P. Vincent is a Framingham, Mass., resident who has a passion for wine. His column runs in Food & Dining on the third Wednesday of the month. Contact him at winewisdom@yahoo.com or visit his blog at winewisdom.blogspot.com.
author: Mark P. Vincent