How to Install an Insulated Barricade Modular Panel System in Basements Union NJ

Steps

1. The insulated Barricade modular panel system for unfinished basements includes natural OSB 2'x 2' R3.2 subfloor tiles and coated white OSB 2' x 8' R5.5 to R12 wall panels. These subfloor tiles interlock together with tongue and groove edges and the wall panels have a ship lap joint. The rigid polystyrene insulation on the bottom of the tiles and panels have channels scored into them to allow for air flow ventilation.
2. Start with the subfloor installation first since the perimeter wall tiles and partition walls will be installed on top of the subfloor.
3. Calculate the number of tiles you need by dividing the square footage of the room by 3.3. Clean the concrete floor and repair cracks and irregularities.
4. Acclimatize the tiles in the basement for 48 hours so that the tiles adjust to the relative humidity of the basement.
5. Once you are ready to install the subfloor, pick an open accessible corner of the basement foundation wall the farthest from where the tiles are stored as your starting point.
6. Cut the "tongue" off the sides of the first starting tile and place the cut edges in the starting corner against temporary 1/2" spacers placed between the tile and the foundation wall.
7. For the second tile in the first row cut the tongue edge off the side going against the 1/2" spacers against the foundation wall. Tap the tongue on the top of the second tile into the groove of the first tile using a tapping block and rubber mallet.
8. If the finished floor on top of the subfloor is a floating floor of some kind, such as a laminate floor, the subfloor can float in place meaning there is no need to glue the edges together or to fasten the tiles down to the concrete floor.
9. If a wall-to-wall carpet will be installed on top of the subfloor then it is important to fasten all of the perimeter tiles and a row in the middle of the subfloor with 2" Tapcon concrete screws. This will allow for carpet to be stretched without causing the tiles to move.
10. If a nail-down wood floor is installed on top of the subfloor then it is important to glue all the tongue and groove edges together as well as to fasten all of the perimeter tiles and a row in the middle with 2" Tapcon concrete screws. This will provide a stable rigid subfloor for nail-down hardwood floors. Use 1-1/2" floor cleats to install the hardwood floor.
11. Install the first row of the subfloor installation until you get to the last tile. Cut the last tile to allow for the 1/2" spacer. Use a pull bar to pull the last tile into place.
12. Start the second row with a 12" x 24" half tile making sure to use the 1/2" spacers against the foundation wall. This will stagger the tile seams to give the subfloor more structure.
13. Complete the subfloor installation by completing one row at a time checking to make sure the subfloor is level as you go. Most tiles will conform to irregularities in the concrete floor but if leveling is required us flat pieces of polystyrene insulation placed loosely under the tiles.
14. Leave a 1/2" gap around obstacles in the basement such as support posts, stairs and load-bearing walls. Leave a gap of at least 24" around the furnace, water heater or fireplace. This space can be finished with ceramic tile.
15. For the last row of the subfloor, cut the tiles to allow for a 1/2" gap. Use a pull bar or the Barricade installation tool to pull these panels in place.
16. Now that the subfloor has been installed it is time to install the wall panels.
17. Start at the same starting point on the wall as the subfloor.
18. Make sure the foundation wall is clear of obstructions that would prevent the installation of the panels.
19. Calculate where electrical wall outlets and cable boxes will be in the room so that the wall panels can be prepared for the wiring.
20. Place the first wall panel flat against the foundation wall right into the corner on top of the new subfloor. Cutting the panel may be required to fit the panel around obstacles or irregularities on the wall.
21. Using 2" Tapcon concrete screws fasten the panel in six locations: two at the top of the panel, two in the middle and two at the bottom, 2" in from the edge of the panel.
22. Fit the second panel into the ship lap joint of the first panel and install the six Tapcons.
23. Continue installing the panels this way around the perimeter of the foundation wall fitting around basement windows and other wall obstacles and irregularities.
24. Install the specially prepared wall panels for electrical outlets and cable as you have designated them at the outset.
25. Once you have completed the wall panel installation around the perimeter of the foundation wall, you are ready to install the partition walls on top of the subfloor required for your basement layout.
26. The installation of the wall panels eliminates the need for a stud wall around the foundation wall.
27. Either wood or steel stud non-load bearing partition walls can be installed on top of the subfloor. Fasten the base plate of the stud wall with fasteners right to the subfloor. At either end of the 8' base plate use 2" Tapcons to fasten the base plate to the concrete floor.

Tips

• If in doubt, hire a building inspector to make sure your basement foundation is structurally sound and does not leak water into the basement.
• If there is water leakage evident through the foundation, repair before finishing the basement.
• Cut subfloor tiles and wall panels outside or in a well-ventilated space
• Use an approved dust mask and safety glasses when cutting tiles and panels
• Use work gloves to carry the tiles and panels
• Control excess humidity in the basement with a de-humidifier set to a relative humidity level of 45% at 70 Degrees F

Warnings

• Do not cover up a drain unless you provide an access cover to allow drain maintenance.
• Do not install solid hardwood flooring in basements. Use engineered hardwood floors approved for basements instead.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure and pencil
• 3" x 3" x 1/2" wood spacers
• Level
• T-Square
• 2" Tapcon concrete screws
• Electric drill
• Masonry drill bit
• Circular saw or hand saw
• Jig saw
• Portable work bench
• Pull bar
• Hammer or rubber mallet
• Wood tapping block
• Safety glasses
• Approved dust mask
• Work gloves

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