Bonsai is the ancient practice of combining art and horticulture. Knowledge and ability in both subjects is necessary to develop good bonsai. Bonsai originated in China; however in the eighth century the Japanese adopted it as an art of cultivating artificially dwarfed trees and shrubs. The word Bonsai is from the Japanese, bon means pot, and sai means to plant. Most species of trees can be trained as a bonsai; the most common are juniper, bamboo, maple, and pine. Flowering shrubs such as azaleas are also used. To successfully create a healthy and robust bonsai the combination of these two skills must be considered.
STEP 2:
Training boxes is the next step. They are smaller and create smaller dense roots, which can easily be repotted in the presentation box.
STEP 3:
Presentation containers come in various shapes, sizes and colors. Containers with sharp corners and straight sides are generally used for formally presented plants. Bonsai with informal presentation are usually in oval or round containers. Evergreen plants are placed in unglazed pots, while glazed pots are used for deciduous plants. The color of the pot must compliment the plant. The container should have holes in it with screens covering the holes to allow the water to drain, while keeping the soil in the pot.
STEP 4:
Bonsai soils should optimize drainage. The soil should be loose, with a base of course sand or gravel, clay pellets or expanded shale, combined with peat or bark. Fertilizer may be either organic or chemical.
STEP 5:
Several hours of direct or lightly filtered sunlight are required for proper growth. Bonsai will probably die if they are kept indoors, since they are developed from trees adapted to temperate climates and require a period of dormancy. The exception might be certain tropical species
STEP 6:
Special tools are required. The concave cutter is designed to prune flush, and not leave a stub. Branch bending jacks, shears of various sizes, and wire pliers will also be needed. Copper, or anodized aluminum wire is used to hold the branches until they are set.
STEP 7:
Pruning the leaves and roots consistently, creates the small size of the tree and the dwarf foliage. Some pruning is done seasonally, depending on the dormant period of the species.
STEP 8:
Shaping is accomplished by wiring. This is the most powerful tool in controlling the shape of the tree. Spring and fall is the best time to wire a tree. Wrap the trunk of the tree, and then wrap each branch in spirals of wire so the branch can be bent. The tree will train the branch to grow in the direction you desire. Attaching weight to the branches will cause them to sag, giving the impression of age. The thickness of the wire should be in proportion to the size of the branch. The wire should be left on only for one growing season; it should not be allowed to grow into the branch. Do not let the wires cross, and start at the base of the trunk and work up.
STEP 9:
Watering the bonsai can be an art in itself. The limited space in the container limits the expanse of the root system, making proper watering difficult. Some species require constant water, which other can withstand periods of dryness. The soil should not be allowed to become bone dry, while on the other hand soggy soil can promote fungal infections. Watering can be done with a watering can, or the tree can be immersed in water up to the lip of the container.
STEP 10:
Repotting is generally done in the spring prior to the end of the dormant period. Bonsai should be repotted every two years, until they are mature. This encourages the growth of new roots and allows the tree to absorb water more efficiently.Your mature bonsai should have a well balance design, thus the artistic talent. The container should be in proportion to the tree. The horticulture talent will present itself in the well tapered trunk, balanced arrangement of branches, and an interesting root formation.
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