Ruby

Welcome to the most concise, yet thorough, guide to rubies ever compiled. In the next fifteen minutes, you can find out enough basics to actually shop for these elegant stones with confidence. For instance, did you know that rubies are simply red sapphires? It's true. Together, sapphires and rubies make the corundum family of gemstones. Don't worry, corundum is just a fancy way of saying aluminum and oxygen. Next to diamonds, rubies are the hardest gemstone in the world. And, although diamonds are usually more valuable, large, exquisite rubies are so rare, that when one over three carats hits the market, it can demand over three times the price of the same size diamond.

The pure red corundum of Myanmar (Burma) have long been the color standard By which all other rubies are judged. But there are sumptuous specimens from Thailand, Cambodia, Africa, Vietnam and China as well.

You get the picture. Our mission is to give you a fun, complete overview of rubies so you can understand the nuances involved in judging quality and appreciating the beauty of these most mysterious, glorious gemstones.

We've all heard of the "4C's" of valuing diamonds. Well with rubies, it's All about color. Now before you run out and buy the first red stone you see, we have to think about red in terms of what makes a perfect ruby. The gemstone trade considers color from three distinct, yet equally important scales.

Hue: Pure red from the spectrum of colors is where to begin. Think: traffic-signal. Now forget about ever finding a ruby that color. If you do, it's fake. But, with that color in mind, it's easier to gauge the quality of color in the real rubies you do see.

Tone: Is considered in two ways: lightness/darkness, and distribution. Basically, you're looking for hints of white, black, brown and gray. And you are looking for consistency of tone throughout the stone. If you prefer a little lighter than darker, that's fine. Keep in mind that darker stones are generally more valuable, and you want your chosen color as uniformly distributed as is reasonable.

Purity or Intensity: This can get a little dicey, so The Gemological Institute of America has prepared a handy scale for judging purity.

Vivid (now that's red)

Moderately strong

Very Slightly Brownish of Grayish

Slightly Brownish or Grayish

Brownish or Grayish (next stone please)

Now, apply all these color signifiers to each ruby against a variety of colored backgrounds, under different light sources, from the top and from the sides. Don't forget to test the color against your skin, since there is no perfect red for a ruby, pick a red that's just right for you. Under all these conditions, keep focused on the uniformity and consistency of color. Make sure it doesn't wash out in white and disappear in black. Are the edges (girdle) the same tone as the center (culet)?

There is no such thing as a flawless ruby. The trick is to find a stone with flaws (identifying features) that donÕt leave it vulnerable to breakage or adversely effect its color. Clarity is the term used to determine how free from flaws a ruby is. External flaws are called blemishes, and you will hear them referred to as scratches, pits, nicks and abrasions. Internal marks are inclusions, categorized as cracks (feathers) crystals, negative crystals, silk, fingerprints, halos, cavities, chips and color zoning.

Every ruby you look at will have a variety of these flaws present, and as long as they donÕt ruin the consistency of color, they are acceptable. Except for cracks. If you find a ÒfeatherÓ that starts at the surface and works deep into the stone, its durability is likely threatened and you should consider another choice.

Now, since these flaws can render a ruby either worthless, priceless and anything in between, The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) and The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) have developed grading systems for determining clarity. The AGL looks at flaws with the naked eye and ranges from FI (free of inclusions) to EI1-3 (extremely included) with several levels in between.

The GIA works with 10x magnification and top quality is VVS (very, very slightly included) and bottom is Dcl(declasse) and again the range of variables is numerous.

Many jewelers employ their own scales (like A to AAAAA) so ask how close to the top of the AGL or GIA scale his definition of a particular stone lands.

Examine the ruby for clarity the same way you do for color; various backgrounds, light sources, from the top, bottom and sides, and under magnification.

Think of your ruby like you do your spouse and learn to love them the same way, warts and all.

Perhaps the people who determine gemstone value thought you had enough to consider with color and clarity that they figured they'd give you a break on the importance of cut. Well, not likely, but regardless, this item falls way below the first two in the pricing process. A couple things to remember though:

1. Stones over a carat are typically a mixed cut to either an oval or cushion (square or rectangle with curving sides) shape. These cuts allow the jeweler to retain the bulk of the weight (very important considering the rarity of large rubies) There are large rounds, but they will cost more because of the precision involved in the cut.

2. When shopping, compare rounds with rounds, pears with pears, etc.

3. Value of cut varies with style trends. Ask your jeweler what's hot. But remember, this is a ruby, not a pair of shoes. Traditional cuts are traditional for a reason.

Of course carat weight is important for rubies, but only insofar as you need to know the price per carat. It is far more crucial to find a stone of pure color and good clarity in the price range you set. But a few ruby specific carat items of interest:

1. For stones between 1/2 carat and 1 carat, think in terms of cost per carat, not total cost. Rubies under 1/2 carat will likely be listed by millimeter size.

2. When comparison shopping, only consider stones of similar size, cut and overall quality. In other words, don't compare a 2 carat oval with a half carat round.
3. Corundum is far more dense than most gemstones, so a one carat ruby may be smaller than a one carat diamond.

4. You may hear "size" used in place of weight, it's common. But cut can have an illusory effect, a one carat ruby may look smaller than one weighing a little less.

5. Watch for rings or pendants with a "total weight" label. Ask the weight of the stone prior to setting.

6. It's always smarter to buy your quality gemstones unmounted.

Now that you've rooted out this bunch of carat facts, you can tell your jeweler to "show me the rubies."

Did you ever think you'd be telling your jeweler to show you the biggest, brightest flaw he's got? Well, if you're shopping for a star ruby, that's exactly what you're doing. That beautiful, perfect six rayed star is the same inclusion (silk) that you want to minimize in your faceted stone. So, here's the dirt on your favorite stars:

1. Six, well defined rays reaching across the entire face of the stone and easily seen under direct light.

2. The star is centered. (almost as likely in rubies as movies)

3. Clear contrast between star and surrounding stone.

Just like with the traffic signal red, this is simply the improbable ideal by which to judge reality's shortcomings. Look at it this way, just imagine the thrill of stumbling across a natural stone that comes close. The same color and clarity guidelines apply for star and faceted rubies, but for stars, there is a little more leniency. In addition, with stars you must consider transparency. From fully transparent to opaque, on this scale you are looking for a ruby that is semitransparent where objects will be hazy and a little blurry when seen through the stone.

Star ruby shopping checklist:

1. All the above elements for a quality star.

2. The less transparent the stone, the more important the cut. Opaque stones shouldn't have more than 1/4 total weight below the girdle. Semitransparent stones need more weight below the girdle to sharpen tone and make the star pop out. But, don't let cut kill what is otherwise a beautiful color and sharp star.

3. Watch for fakes. Is the star too clear? The bottom too flat? The red too vivid? The stone either too transparent or opaque? Some newer synthetics are better at hiding the truth, but after you see enough real ones, you'll be better able to pick out the wheat from the chaff.

Take this list with you when you shop and check each item off as it is satisfied. Bring a loupe and a soft cloth. Oh, and have fun.

Color: Traffic signal red. Remember Hue, Tone and Intensity. Vivid, uniform color that holds tone over various backgrounds and under numerous light sources.

Clarity: You want to see both blemishes and inclusions, just as long as they don't threaten durability and block consistency of color and transparency.

Transparency: Think blurry and hazy. You don't want to see right through the stone, but you want to see through it.

Carat Weight: Think price per carat for stones over 1/2 carat, and millimeter size for smaller stones. Beware of "total weight" price tags on mounted stones, only pay for the weight of the stone.

Cut and Style: Most rubies over one carat will be mixed cut oval or cushion style. Smaller stones come in all shapes and styles. Look for symmetry of line, height of crown vs. depth of pavilion, centering of culet, sharp facets, and a smooth clean finish.

Treatments: Four rules,

1. Almost all rubies on the market have been heat treated. Demand documentation for any claims otherwise.

2. Ask to have any ruby cleaned in an ultrasonic machine. This will reveal oiling and dyeing.

3. Ask about surface diffusion. Remember, jewelers are only obliged to disclose treatments only if you ask.

4. Have all treatments clearly identified on the bill of sale.

Synthetics and Fakes: Three rules,

1. If the price is too good to be true, it is.

2. Know your stones, and glass too.

3. Watch for words like "created" or "cultured", they mean synthetic. If a jeweler says it's natural, get it in writing.

Deceptive practices: Four rules,

1. With fine gemstones, there are no unbelieveable bargains.

2. Look for spots of inconsistent luster from glass fillings.

3. Don't pay ruby prices for "nicknamed" rubies. A ruby is a ruby, period.

4. Watch out for closed back or bezel settings. They can hide any flaw or fraud.

If you have any doubts, make your purchase contingent on a professional impartial appraisal. Get all treatments, composites and guarantees clearly written on your bill of sale.

The best thing about shopping for rubies overseas, is that you will probably find a larger selection of higher quality stones. You can also find styles and cuts unique to a particular region. You can also purchase a ruby from its country of origin, adding sentimental value to your treasured gemstone. But the advantages end there. Here's your international shoppers checklist:

1. Know your stones

2. Get recommendations from the hotel concierge and tour guides, and get their names in writing.

3. Only purchase from a traditional store. Don't be fooled by tent sales and street fairs.

4. Never pay cash. You get purchase protection and a better exchange rate from most credit cards.

5. Figure out the purchase price in your home currency.

6. Consider having the stone appraised before you leave the country you bought it in.

7. Get a receipt with a money back guarantee written directly on it.

8. Don't fall for Duty-Free bargains.

With these few guidelines, you can have fun shopping for the last amazing find in the world. And even if you don't find it, you'll have a great time trying, and who knows, you might find a little treasure to take home anyway.

The above information was sourced from www.TheDiamond.com.
Contact: info@thediamond.com
1-800-320-9670 / 212-967-9670